COUNTER WEIGHTED EASEL
PLANS TO BUILD YOUR OWN COUNTER-WEIGHTED EASEL FOR UNDER A HUNDRED BUCKS (depending on your area and lumberyard and hardware prices, etc)
What is a counter-weighted easel? you ask. It’s just an easel that eliminates all of the annoying hassles of every other easel that still uses cave-man technology knobs and cranks and pins and springs and every other detestable easel hardware that is doomed to fail. It’s a simple lift or push to put the canvas exactly where you want it on the vertical plane.
SUPPLIES:
TOOLS:
Skill Saw
Table Saw (not necessary if you have the lumber yard cut the plywood)
Screw Gun/Drill
Level
Tape Measure
Pencil
WOOD:
1 12′ 2×4
2 10′ 2X4s
4 8′ 2X4s
2 8′ 2X6s
2 4X8 sheets of 1/4 plywood, preferably beech wood (a bit pricier)
Have the Lumber yard attendant cut one of the pieces lengthwise in half so you have two 8′X2′ pieces, and cut the other one ALMOST in half the other way so you have one piece (the one you will use) that’s 4′X4′1″. The other piece is scrap so you might as well have him cut it to sizes of panels that you can then gesso and paint on.
HARDWARE:
2 4′ lengths of 1/2 angle iron
4 2″ stationary castors
4 2″ swivel casors
100′ of 3/8″ nylon rope
2 1/4″x1″ Eye Screws
1 5/16″x 1″ Eye Screw
1 5/16″ 2″ U-Bolt
2 5/16″ Washers
2 5/16″ Lockwashers
4 5/16″ nuts
1 Side by side double pulley
1 Single pulley with ability to attach to a surface by bottom plate
2 1/2″ x 3.5″ inch round head bolts
2 1/2″ washers
2 1/2″ lock plate washers(to lock round head bolts square shoulders in place in order to tighten the nuts)
2 1/2″ lock washers
2 1/2″ nuts
1 5/16″ x 3 1/2″ round head bolt
1 5/16″ lock plate washer
1 5/16″x2″ washer
1 5/16″ lock washer
1 5/16″ “T” handle nut
1 25 lb weight
1 10lb weight
2 Heavy Duty Door Hinges
30 31/2″ Gold Wood Screws
20 11/2″ Gold Wood Screws
2 Heavy Duty “L” Brackets
10 3/4″ Flat Screws
Step 1 is to build the frame for the easel. Cut and screw together the configuration below with the 31/2″ Gold Wood Screws. If you did not get the plywood cut, step 2 is to do that. Cut one of the pieces lengthwise in half so you have two 8′X2′ pieces, and cut the other one ALMOST in half the other way so you have one piece (the one you will use) that’s 4′X4′1″. The other piece is scrap so you might as well cut it to sizes of panels that you can then gesso and paint on.
Step 3 and 4 is to attach the plywood with the 1 1/2″ Gold Wood Screws. Be certain that the frame is perfectly square when you attach the plywood so that the slide action of the riser works smoothly later on. Then attach the angle iron to the sides of the easel. These will be the “ways” that enable the riser action to be smooth and simple. You will need to drill 5 holes in to the angle iron at each foot-length and counter sink the holes so that when you screw the angle iron in with a flat screw it will be flush along the track for the wheels.
Step 5 is to put the pulleys on the main upright. The double pulley will be hung from the the top as the animation below shows using the U bolt.
Screw the Single Pulley to the bottom like so:
Step 6 is to put together the base. Using the only 2X6s, put the base together in the configuration below:
Step 7 is to put together the tilt-adjustor. Cut the 12′ 2X4 in half for this one. Using a skill saw and a Rip Fence, gouge a 1 1/2′ channel in to one of the 2X4s. Drill a hole in the other one. This hole will be used for the 5/16″ x3 1/2″ round head bolt and the T handle nut. In the side grain(not the end grain) attach the 2 Heavy Duty Door Hinges to the ends of the adjustor. And Finally use the Heavy Duty Angle brackets to form a channel for the moving 2×4 so that it doesn’t swivel on the adjusting bolt.
Step 8 is to put the main 3 parts together as the animation below illustrates. Use the 1/2″x3 1/2″ round head bolts to attach the front of the easel to the base and the wood screws to attach the door hinges to the base and upright.
Step 9 is to build the Riser. Use a level in order to assure that your riser(B) is properly mounted to the upright(D). Measure for the distance that the stationary castors(C) need to be placed away from the riser in order that they role properly and do not bind. Also be sure to mount the Castor Mount(A) at a perfect right angle to the riser so that the castors maintain connection to the angle iron ways.
The Final Step 10 is to wind the rope through the pulley system as shown. I have found that this configuration of weights works the best, but try other weights in order to see the effect of changing them. Enjoy your new Easel!!
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